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Monday, April 07, 2008

Nicaragua: Masaya Market












Masaya has two markets, one for handicrafts and the local market. The local market is at the bus station, so I thought I'd start there. I wandered around, checking out the various sections: eating, vegetables and fruits, meat, fish, household goods, shoe repair, furniture, pottery, and tourist items.











While outside for a short walk, I noticed that here, the horse-drawn carriages are just a common means of transportation, not a tourist attraction. I even found a horse-drawn bus.

Several hours later, with a stomach full of pollo asado, two pairs of sandals, a new wallet, a pocketbook, and a lot of pictures, I boarded a motorized bus to Granada, yet another converted school bus.

That's when I discovered that the dark red bag that I'd purchased was really a bright, bright red. Never buy colored things in covered markets without taking them into the sunlight. I knew that.



The bag is Guatemalan, as are most of the textiles sold in Central America. The majority of the remainder seem to come from India. You really have to look hard for anything local. Then, even if you get a local type weave, you are never sure they are made locally.











Nadine, my friend with the shop in Granada, only sells local goods, yet I was sure that some of her hammocks came from Ecuador. One day I heard her explain to someone that the Ecuadorian style became very popular in Nicaragua, so the weavers learned how to make them.











That reminds me of all the tours of ruins I've taken: We think they had their first contact with such-and-such group then, because that's about when such-and-such style elements were incorporated into their pottery. So in the future, will archaeologists date Nicaragua's first contact with Guatemala as early in the 21st century, based on fabric fragments from a few hammocks?

Friday, April 04, 2008

Nicaragua: San Juan del Oriente, The Crafts Town











San Juan del Oriente is literally a few hundred yards from Catarina. I walked there after strolling around Catarina for over an hour, so you know it's close.












San Juan del Oriente is a crafts town, one of those places where you can see workers in their workshops, and every building seems to be sprouting examples of whatever is made there. In this case it is pottery. The streets (two of them) are lined with shops and restaurants, porches crammed with pottery, windchimes hanging from the rafters, so one thinks that they are some sort of plant being raised there.

When looking at crafts, there is high quality and low quality. I always go for the low quality small item, so it costs little, is not so likely to break, and I won't care much if it does. So, after I spent my two dollars (it was going to be $1.50, but the salesperson didn't have change, so I took it in goods), I got on the bus for home. Well, for Granada. By then it was feeling like home.